Cast iron was the standard drainage material in Florida homes until around the mid 1970s. It's strong, quiet and long lasting, and it also corrodes from the inside out. In Florida's humidity and soil chemistry that happens faster than the people who installed it expected.
The failure pattern is consistent. Corrosion starts at the bottom of the pipe where water sits longest, builds scale that narrows the bore and catches debris, then eats through until the invert is gone entirely. From above ground, a pipe at year two of that process looks identical to one at year thirty.
Signs your cast iron is failing
- Blockages that keep coming back in the same place despite being cleared.
- Slow drainage across multiple fixtures that cabling only improves for a while.
- Sewer smell indoors with no obvious source, which can mean the pipe has opened below floor level.
- Discolored water backing up carrying rust colored debris.
- Cracked or sinking floor tiles over a drain run, where soil has washed out through a failed pipe.
- Damp patches or unexplained mustiness at slab level.
None of these are definitive on their own. A camera is.
What the camera tells us
There's a real difference between cast iron that's aged and cast iron that's failed, and the distinction is worth money:
| Condition | What it looks like | Reasonable response |
| Light scaling | Rough surface, full bore | Jet it, monitor, plan ahead |
| Heavy scaling | Noticeably narrowed, flow restricted | Jetting helps, replacement is coming |
| Channelling | Bottom of the pipe thinned or worn through in places | Replace the affected sections |
| Invert gone | Soil visible through the pipe floor | Replace, and check for voids under the slab |
| Collapse | Structural failure | Replace, urgently |
How replacement works
- Camera the full system so the scope is based on evidence rather than assumption.
- Decide the extent. Sometimes it's the main run under the slab. Sometimes it's a branch. Sometimes it's everything.
- Plan the route. Under slab replacement means tunnelling or opening concrete, and the choice between them is about access and cost.
- Permit, which we handle.
- Replace with PVC, which doesn't corrode and has a smooth bore.
- Inspect, backfill and restore, with the scope of restoration agreed before we start rather than discovered after.
What drives the cost
- How much pipe genuinely needs doing, which is what the camera establishes.
- Under slab or accessible. This is the biggest single factor.
- Tunnel or open cut. Tunnelling from outside leaves floors intact but costs more per foot.
- Finishes. Replacing tile that's no longer manufactured is its own problem.
- Voids. A failed pipe that's been washing soil out can leave cavities under the slab that need filling.
Financing is available, and on this work it's usually part of the conversation rather than an afterthought.
Which Tampa homes are affected
Broadly, anything built before the mid 1970s. That covers a lot of the city's most desirable older housing: South Tampa, Hyde Park, Seminole Heights, Ybor, parts of Temple Terrace and West Tampa. These are exactly the neighborhoods where homes get renovated, extended and sold at a premium, and where the drainage under the slab is frequently original.
A note on sourcing. Much of what's written about Florida cast iron online comes from law firms seeking insurance claim clients and from contractors selling replacement, and the numbers quoted vary widely between sources. We'd rather not repeat figures we can't stand behind. What we can tell you is what a camera shows in your specific house, which is the only figure that affects your decision.