A sump pump sits in a pit at the lowest point of a property and removes water that collects there. It spends most of the year doing nothing, which is exactly why so many are found to be dead at the worst possible moment.
Tampa's situation is specific. Basements are rare, so sump pumps here are usually dealing with a high water table, crawlspace intrusion, or stormwater around the foundation rather than classic basement flooding.
Test yours now, not in August. Pour a bucket of water into the pit and watch. The float should rise, the pump should start, the water should go, and the pump should stop cleanly. Any step that doesn't happen is a fault worth fixing before hurricane season.
Signs it's failing
- It doesn't start when the pit fills.
- It runs continuously and never satisfies, which suggests a stuck float, a blocked discharge or a worn impeller.
- Short cycling, starting and stopping rapidly, usually a float set wrong or a pit sized badly.
- Noise that's new, grinding or rattling.
- Visible rust or debris in the pit, which fouls floats.
- Water in places it hasn't been before, which is the pump telling you after the fact.
- Age. Pumps are mechanical and they wear out, whether or not they've been used much.
What goes wrong
| Fault | Cause | Fix |
| Won't start | Power, float, or failed motor | Check the circuit first, then the pump |
| Runs but no water moves | Blocked discharge or failed check valve | Clear or replace |
| Stuck float | Debris, or the float fouling the pit wall | Clean, reposition or replace |
| Discharge freezing or blocking | Obstruction at the outlet | Clear and protect the outlet |
| Overwhelmed in heavy rain | Undersized for the actual inflow | Resize rather than replace like for like |
| Dead during an outage | No backup power | Battery backup system |
Backup power, which is the Tampa question
Here is the problem in one sentence: the conditions that make a sump pump essential are the same conditions that take the power out. A tropical storm brings the water and removes the electricity, usually in that order.
A battery backup pump sits alongside the primary and takes over when mains power fails. It's the single most worthwhile addition to a sump system in this city, and it's worth doing before storm season rather than after the year you needed it.
Where the water is coming from
A pump is a symptom manager, not a cure. If yours is running constantly, it's worth asking why there's that much water to move. Common causes: grading that falls toward the house rather than away, gutters discharging next to the foundation, a high seasonal water table, or a leak in a supply or drainage line feeding the pit.
That last one matters. We've found more than one hard working sump pump that was faithfully removing water from a leaking service line. Fixing the leak retired the pump.
Storm season readiness
A short list, worth running every year before June:
- Test the pump with a bucket of water.
- Check the discharge outlet is clear and directs water away from the building.
- Clean debris out of the pit.
- Confirm the check valve holds, so water doesn't run back into the pit.
- Test the backup system, and replace the battery on schedule rather than when it fails.
- Know where the breaker is.