Toilets fail in a small number of predictable ways, and most of them are repairs rather than replacements. The exception is a leak at the base, which people often ignore and shouldn't.
The EPA puts the cost of a single dripping fixture at roughly 3,000 gallons a year at one drip per second. A toilet that runs continuously goes through considerably more than that, silently, until the bill arrives.
What's actually wrong
| Symptom | Usual cause | Repair or replace |
| Runs constantly | Worn flapper or a fill valve not shutting off | Repair, inexpensive |
| Refills by itself periodically | Slow flapper leak letting the tank drain | Repair |
| Weak or incomplete flush | Blocked rim jets, low tank level, or a partial blockage | Repair |
| Water at the base | Failed wax seal, or a cracked pan | Reseal, or replace if cracked |
| Rocking on the floor | Loose flange bolts or a damaged flange | Repair, but do it promptly |
| Blocks repeatedly | Low flow model, partial branch blockage, or the main line | Investigate before replacing |
| Sewer smell | Failed seal or a venting problem | Repair |
The one not to ignore
A toilet that rocks, or shows water at the base, is leaking at the floor connection. That water goes into the subfloor rather than across it, so there's very little to see while a lot happens. On a timber subfloor it rots; on a slab it finds its way under the finish. Either way, what starts as a seal replacement turns into a flooring job if left.
If yours moves when you sit on it, that's the fix to book.
Repair or replace
Most toilets are worth repairing. Flappers, fill valves, flush valves and seals are inexpensive parts and a working toilet is a working toilet.
Replacement makes sense when the pan is cracked, when an old high volume model is costing real money in water, when it's blocking constantly because of poor design rather than anything in the line, or when you're replacing the floor anyway and it has to come out regardless.
Installation
- Check the rough-in measurement, which determines what will actually fit.
- Inspect the flange. Old flanges are often corroded or below finished floor level, and a new toilet on a bad flange will rock and leak.
- Set it properly with a new seal and correctly tensioned bolts.
- Connect and test the supply, including the shut-off, which on older installs is frequently seized.
- Check for movement and seal the base where appropriate.
The flange is where cheap installs go wrong. It's underneath, nobody sees it, and a toilet set on a damaged one will come loose within a year.
On a septic system
If a toilet backs up and you're on septic, don't assume the toilet is the problem. A full tank produces exactly the same symptom, and so does a drain field that's stopped accepting water. The giveaway is whether other fixtures are slow too. Since we run both trades, we check rather than guess, which saves you paying for a toilet repair that was never going to fix anything.
Wipes, again
Worth repeating because it causes so much of this work. Wipes sold as flushable clear the pan and then fail to break down, so they accumulate in the branch, the lateral or a grinder pump. If a toilet in a rental or a shared building blocks repeatedly with no obvious cause, this is almost always it.